June 2026
Palace of the Shirvanshahs
Surrounded by the frenetic movements of people and vehicles in old town Baku sit an undisturbed reminder of the rich history of the Azeri people: the Shirvanshah Palace. As you tread the old stones through the narrow roads, you find yourself walking with one foot in the old world and one in the new. The medieval limestone walls, as tall and robust as they are, cannot rise high enough to block the sight of modern skyscrapers and the sound of busy roads outside the aged palace. But within the walls of the city, the court built by the ancestral Azeris waits patiently as the memory of the kingdoms of old.
The Palace of the Shirvanshahs as we see it today was built in the 16th century, but the mosques, baths, and burial sites precede the palace. They are remnants of former glories. Kings and courts were on this site before the medieval walls were erected; prayers were offered in these buildings before imposing fortifications protected them. Princes and queen-mothers were laid to rest near their reigning kings; the stones of the palace have witnessed many come and go. Of the guests the stones greeted, there were even invading armies, warriors, and kings who sacked the city and took the throne, leaving only descriptions of the fabled sea for our minds to imagine.
Today the palace shines as only the smooth cut limestone knows how, but that is not a historical accident. Much effort has been expended restoring and fortifying the seat of old power, and it has not been in vain. For we cannot simply leave our history to waste away in the sand and dust, but we also cannot raze it and act as if our age is the only one of consequence. If we forget our past and the forebears who laid the foundations for the world we live in, we are cutting off our noses to spite our faces. We live in time, and ours is not the only time that matters. We must be reminded of our history, or we will be a rudderless, disconnected people who only live in the present moment. The Palace of the Shirvanshahs is a patient reminder of Azeri history and identity. If you find yourself in Baku, you must tread the stones that the ancients laid and step one foot into the history of Azerbaijan.
