The blue ocean waters toss and turn along the coast of Mombasa and stand witness to the history that has unfolded in the East African trading hub. From the city’s shore, your mind’s eye can imagine the centuries pass. Centuries before the British ran aground, the Arab and Indian trading ships made port to find new markets for their spices and wares. Mombasa was a pivotal hub for merchants and traders along the Indian Ocean trade routes, and as European trade expanded, the Portuguese set their sights on it.

                 After engaging in trade with the locals, the Portuguese sought to conquer Mombasa and hold it as a trading port colony under King Philip II. After skirmishes throughout the 16th century, Portugal would take Mombasa under its dominion in 1593. To maintain their newly conquered land, they would erect Fort Jesus at the entrance to the old port. Designed by Italian architect Batista Cairato, the forts’ design is inspired by the Renaissance ideal of perfect proportions. While I am unfamiliar with these design principles myself, I was still impressed by the durable construction and maintenance. From the parapets, I could survey the whole coast and imagine the watchful eyes of soldiers tasked with defending the stronghold from incoming combatants. The cool breeze from the ocean would be the only respite from the hot noonday sun bearing down on anyone who walked these walls.

                 The interior has seen better decades and shows the wear and tear of the rainy season. The weathered walls were not smoothed by the elements; however, the wall’s mortar is combined with coral from around the island, making the exterior more jagged with wear and tear. The stone captain's quarters were in similar condition, showing the power of the environment on the handiwork of men. During the Portuguese occupation, however, this Fort was in its prime. But it would not remain under Portuguese control for very long. They only managed to hold the Fort and the surrounding city for about a century before incoming military aid would rout the Europeans from their hold. The era of Portuguese control would end, and the era of Omani control would come to take its place. But that is a story for next week…