The Chronicles of Georgia
"ქართლის ცხოვრება"
The noonday sun in Tbilisi bears down on travelers and locals alike as you climb the steps up Mount Kenisi toward the massive Chronicles of Georgia. The pictures and videos of the ~115 ft (~35 m) tall sculpture could not prepare me for the colossal scale and craftsmanship on display. The 16 pillars of the Chronicles tell the story of Georgian History and its Christian heritage; Each face of the pillars depicts scenes of Biblical stories on the lowest portions, while the upper portions, about 2/3 of the pillar, depict various important Georgian figures and traditions. Before visiting the Chronicles, I had seen people describe it as the “Georgian Stonehenge.” While I have not seen Stonehenge, I would wager a few Lari that it could not possibly be as awe-inspiring. The scale of the Chronicles is imposing, and the detail of each towering bronze and copper figure invites wonder. Scenes from the Garden of Eden, Jesus’ temptation in the wilderness, crucifixion, and resurrection tell the foundational stories that undergird Georgia herself. Atop these biblical scenes stand the heroes of Old Georgia, the literally towering giants who fought for the Georgian kingdom throughout the ages. It is as if each pillar separately but all in one voice says, “Georgian history is built on Christian history”.
Construction of the Chronicle began in 1986, but not as Georgian history but as a massive 100-meter monument to Joseph Stalin. The Georgian artist, Zurab Tsereteli, instead petitioned that the monument display the rich history of Georgia and its people. Zurab was successful, and construction began in 1985 and continued into the 1990s. However, the collapse of the Soviet Union halted the project. The ensuing financial crisis in Georgia would put the project on hold indefinitely. Thankfully for us travelers, the pictorial Georgian monument is completed enough to marvel at. The large bronze reliefs of biblical and Georgian figures combine with the brutalist Soviet style in a way that one’s imagination could not have pictured cohabitating so well. The large reliefs look down upon you; the pivotal Georgian figures watch as their legacy walks among them. They are vanguards of 3000 years of Sakartvelovian statehood, and we travelers get to enjoy the fruits of their history. As you wander this wild and wonderful world, hopping from country to country, make sure to remember Georgia; go and eat her delicious meals, gaze on her wonderful Cathedrals, and walk through her history at the Chronicles of Georgia
July, 2026
